Tossa de Mar

Tossa de Mar is an absolute must-see for anyone who visits me here in Catalonia. Located about an hour north of Barcelona by car or bus, this charming coastal town sits by the sea, enveloped by one of the most beautiful and well-preserved medieval walls in all of Catalonia. The striking contrast between the rugged, ancient walls and the turquoise waters below makes it a truly unique spot to explore.

Beyond its picturesque medieval village, Tossa de Mar also has a charming fishermen’s quarter, where you can savor fresh seafood and traditional local dishes surrounded by sun-bleached houses and buildings. One of the most iconic and representative plates here is Cim i Tomba, a hearty dish that perfectly captures the flavors of the town’s culinary heritage. The blend of local ingredients and coastal flavors make dining here a memorable experience.

For me, the ideal day in Tossa de Mar involves a mix of relaxation and exploration. I start by splashing in the crystal-clear waters and soaking up the sun on one of its beautiful beaches. Afterward, I head to one of the quaint restaurants in the old fishermen’s village, enjoying an authentic local meal. I end the day with a scenic hike to the top of the medieval walled village to burn off the calories, where I can take in the sweeping views of the vast sea while sipping on a refreshing cocktail. It’s the perfect day trip from Barcelona, and one I never get tired of.

Fun fact: almost every time I visit Tossa de Mar, I somehow manage to casually bump into my ex-colleague Pilar. It’s always a pleasant surprise and a reminder of how small the world can be.

Tossa de Mar from the northern vista point

Where is Tossa de Mar?

Tossa de Mar is located on the Costa Brava in the province of Girona, Catalonia, Spain. Situated about 105 kilometers (65 miles) north of Barcelona, it is nestled between rugged hills and the Mediterranean Sea, making it a perfect spot for scenic views, beaches, and rich history.

The history of Tossa de Mar

Tossa de Mar’s most iconic feature is its medieval fortress. In the 12th century, the town began fortifying itself to defend against pirate raids that plagued the Catalan coast. The walled village, home to the famous Vila Vella (Old Town), includes a well-preserved castle perched on a hilltop, offering spectacular views of the surrounding area. The town’s origins are rooted in fishing, an activity that would shape its identity for centuries.

Tossa remained a quiet fishing village throughout the 19th and early 20th centuries, but in the 1920s, it gained popularity as a tourist destination. The town’s picturesque beauty drew artists, writers, and filmmakers, notably American director Edward Fitzgerald, who filmed Pandora’s Box here in 1929, cementing Tossa’s status as a romantic getaway. During the Spanish Civil War (1936-1939), Tossa de Mar also served as a refuge for Spanish Republicans and war exiles, preserving much of its charm while other regions suffered damage.

Today, Tossa de Mar seamlessly blends its ancient past with modern tourism. Recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage site, it stands as a testament to Catalonia’s cultural history and its well-preserved medieval architecture.

Where to eat in Tossa de Mar

Popa is a Mediterranean and Spanish restaurant in Tossa de Mar, known for its creative tapas. Guests rave about the caramelized peppers, anchovy-stuffed olives, and honey-drizzled aubergine, all served with a stunning view of the sea.

Sotavent offers fresh seafood and traditional Catalan dishes, set in a relaxed atmosphere with breathtaking views of the Mediterranean coast. This is an ideal place for a leisurely meal with family or friends.

Restaurant Portal provides a modern twist on classic tapas, serving unique dishes like tataki de pez al limón and cochinita pibil bao. The restaurant is praised for its attentive service and welcoming ambiance, making it a favorite among locals and visitors alike.

Cim i Tomba by Tossa de Mar Gastronomia

What to eat in Tossa de Mar

Cim i tomba is the most famous traditional dish from Tossa de Mar, featuring fish and potatoes and topped with allioli negat, a rich, garlicky sauce that’s a signature of the region. Often served as a hearty, flavorful meal, it’s a beloved choice among locals and a true reflection of Catalan coastal cuisine.

Vedella tossenca is a Catalan dish featuring tender beef slow-cooked with herbs, vegetables, and sometimes wine. This rich stew is a favorite at family gatherings and special occasions, offering a hearty, comforting meal.

Calamars farcits amb mandonguilles is a ‘mar i muntanya’ (surf and turf) dish typical of Tossa de Mar where squid is stuffed with a mixture of minced pork and apples. Typically served in a savory sauce, this dish highlights the region’s fresh seafood and culinary creativity, making it a must-try for seafood lovers.

How to get to Tossa de Mar

To reach Tossa de Mar from Barcelona, you can drive, take a bus, or combine train and bus services. The drive takes about 1.5 hours, covering approximately 105 kilometers via the C-32 or AP-7 highways. Alternatively, direct buses from Barcelona’s Estació del Nord to Tossa de Mar take about 1.5 to 2 hours, with options from companies like Moventis and Sarfa.