Botifarra esparracada

I love fall—it’s one of my favorite times of the year, second only to spring. Unfortunately, the autumn season seems to grow shorter each year here in the Mediterranean. As the end of summer approaches, however, I can’t help but feel excited because it signals something that truly brings me joy: wild mushroom season in Catalonia. Known locally as “mushroom hunting season,” it typically spans October and November, although its timing can vary with the region’s ever-changing temperatures and rainfall levels.

Botifarra espacarrada is the perfect autumn dish, blending Catalonia’s most iconic sausage with seasonal treasures like wild mushrooms. In my recipe, I use one of the region’s most beloved wild mushrooms, rovellons (bloody milk caps in English), to create a rustic, woodsy dish that is everything you want this season.

Rovellons, or bloody milk caps

What is botifarra?

Botifarra is a traditional sausage that holds a place of honor in Catalan cuisine. Rich and savory, it is crafted from high-quality pork, salt, and a blend of spices, often with additional ingredients like garlic or herbs that enhance its flavor. There are countless regional and seasonal variations, each with its own unique twist. For example, botifarra d’ou incorporates egg, giving it a distinctive yellow hue, while botifarra negra or botifarró are made with pig’s blood, resembling morcilla in other parts of Spain or black pudding in the United Kingdom.

The classic botifarra has a flavor profile similar to a non-spicy Italian sausage or bratwurst. It is typically served with mongetes seques (white beans) in a simple yet iconic pairing beloved across Catalonia. Botifarra is also a star ingredient at barbecues, featuring prominently in grilled meat platters, or as part of a traditional calçotada, where its smoky, robust flavor pairs beautifully with charred calçots and romesco or salvitxada sauce.

My botifarra esparracada recipe

The primary variation in this recipe typically comes down to the choice of mushrooms. While I prefer rovellons (wild saffron or bloody milk caps) when they are in season, the beauty of this dish is its simplicity and flexibility. You can use whatever mushrooms you have on hand—porcini, chanterelles, portobellos, or even humble button mushrooms all lend their unique flavors and textures to the recipe.

Some versions of this dish omit onions altogether, but for me, they are an essential component. Onions not only provide a subtle sweetness but are also a hallmark of Catalan cuisine, often forming the foundation of traditional recipes like fricandó, which marries tender meat, mushrooms, and a rich onion base.

When it comes to the sausage, I resist the common temptation to shape the meat into balls. Instead, I prefer to keep the sausage in roughly 1-inch shredded chunks. Not only is this approach more visually appealing, but it also stays true to the dish’s name, since esparracar means ‘to shred’ in Catalan.

A picada is a traditional Catalan sauce or seasoning made by grinding various ingredients together, often used to enhance the flavor of stews, meats, and fish. A garlic and parsley picada is one of the simplest and most common variations and I drizzle it over my dish upon serving.

Finally—and this might surprise you—I add a small yet transformative twist inspired by world-renowned chef Ferran Adrià: a teaspoon of soy sauce. This unconventional ingredient enhances the depth of flavor, delivering a subtle boost of umami that elevates the entire dish. It’s a tiny addition with a big payoff.

Ready to give it a go yourself? Keep reading for the full list of ingredients and step-by-step instructions.